The Vava'u Regatta and Festival, Tonga

Thursday morning I was sitting in the cockpit of Braveheart in Neifu Harbor, Vava'u group, Tonga. The Polynesian Kingdom of Tonga is a South Pacific nation consisting of more than 170 islands about 2,500 southwest of Hawaii. A bright yellow sun rose over the hills surrounding the bay, reflecting off the crystal clear blue water and about 100 sailing yachts at anchor. A soft breeze smelling of tropical flowers and fruits, wafted from the island. The day promised to be perfect. Wednesday I had taken the short flight from the capital of Nuku’ Alofa to Neifau, after the long flight from San Francisco. The boat owner, Bob Callaway, is a nice laid-back guy and his only rule is no whistling on the boat because it drives him crazy. Braveheart, is a 65 foot McGregor and is fast and comfortable, with water maker, hot showers, freezer, and all the amenities of home. Also onboard is a charming young German lady, Veronika, who is into meditation and yoga. Veronica came aboard as crew at one of the other islands. Wednesday night was the pub crawl and more than 100 people attended, many in costume. We had a good time meeting fellow cruisers from all over the world. Seventy-two boats from thirteen countries registered for the third annual Vava’u Regatta and Festival from September 7 to 13.

Thursday afternoon was the TRIDECAGON-ATHLON, a fun afternoon of team games that were very well organized. It was a great opportunity to get to know the other cruisers. Friday was kids day with a parade through town. All the Tongans were dressed in red in preparation for that night’s BIG game, the Rugby World's Cup game between Tonga and Australia.

Friday evening was the first race,sponsored by Whangarei Marine Group of New Zealand, in beautiful weather and moderate winds. Braveheart finished in the middle of the fleet, after having the outhaul break as we went across the starting line.




Saturday we awoke to rain and no wind. This was the day for the big race to another island. Another couple from Hawaii, James and Kim, joined the boat because their water pump failed.

We weighed anchor at 11 and drifted across the starting line. An hour later we were drifting to the shore of another island and had to start the engine, which disqualified us from the race. So we motored to the bay where we anchored for two nights. That night was the Full Moon Party. I danced so hard I had blisters on my feet.

Sunday morning we slept in until 8:30. Kim and I swam to another boat which served us champagne to celebrate Kim's birthday. After a lazy morning of late breakfast, another swim, and snorkeling the reef, we went to a beach barbecue to socialize with other cruisers. I met a Norweign cruising with their two children. That night Bob made some fantastic chili with pork, black beans, kidney beans, and white beans. After dinner Bob and I went lobster diving. We skimmed across the flat water in the dink under a full moon. I did not find any lobster or eel, which makes me think they have been fished out. But it was a beautiful night for diving.

Monday morning we sailed back to Neifu in light wind. I asked Veronika to pose for a Latitude 38 photo.

It was supposed to be a race, but we started about an hour late, sailed through the fleet, and then turned on the engine so we would not be late for the big corn hole bean bag contest.

Tuesday night there was an awards ceremony, barbecue dinner, and another dance, with an excellent live band. Five beautiful Tongan ladies who served the dinner stayed and danced with us. We sang and danced under an almost full moon. What a night!

On my last day in Tonga I took a four hour cultural bicycle tour with a young guide from Oakland, California and a charming young lady from Australia. We visited three villages, read an English children's book to a group of local kids, had lunch in the home of a local lady, visited a 400 year old ceremonial rock wall, toured a farm, kava factory, and watched ladies weaving mats for export. It was a fantastic cultural experience and my guide, Jason Angress, is one of the best tour guides I have met.

Next year I want to return for the regatta and stay another week to see more of the islands.